The Flavors of San Miguel de Allende

There are many wonderful restaurants in San Miguel de Allende, that marvelous Colonial city nestled in the Guanajuato mountains north of Mexico City. But my favorite is the one owned by Dona Meche, with its cracked linoleum floors, its stone archways and its comal (a flat griddle), set in the front entrance so that people walking by can watch Meche pat masa harina, the flour often used to make tortillas, into circles and then fry them as customers make their selection of fillings displayed in the glass covered cases in the crowded entranceway. El Comal de Dona Meche is not the most sophisticated restaurant in this town where Americans and Canadians account for one out of every eight residents, but the food, simple and true, reflects the best of traditional Mexican cuisine.
Here, on Insurgentes Avenue, not too far from El Jardin Principal, the town square where jaracunda trees bloom, vendors come to sell their wares and even the occasional burro makes its way down the cobblestone street, Meche specializes in gorditas, fried masa stuffed with a variety of fillings including chicken with cactus and potatoes; grilled poblano peppers with mushrooms and cheese and picadillo mixed with green beans, carrots and puréed tomatoes.
For ten pesos (approximately a dollar), Meche takes a cooked gordita from her comal and cuts a deep pocket into the middle before filling the center with one of the many mixtures that sit in large ceramic bowls. A glass of Jamaica (hibiscus flower tea), horachata (rice water) or guava juice costs another five pesos. The flavors of the fillings are intense, the softness of the gordita melding the taste into a one of a kind treat.
El Comal de Dona Meche is proof that despite the influx of North Americans, San Miguel has retained the charm of a true Mexican city.
But surviving invasions is nothing new. In the early 1800s, the whole state of Guanajuato was a tinderbox of rebellion against the harsh rule of the Europeans. Indeed, Ignacio Allende, who was born in San Miguel, would go on to become a revolutionary hero and his name would be added to the town’s name. For those who have eaten their fill of Meche’s gorditas, a quick tour of the town is a way to walk off those delicious calories and gain an understanding of the town’s culture and history. The Cuna de Allende, located across from the main square, was the home of Allende and is now a museum featuring exhibits from his life and his battle against tyranny. The muted yellow of the walls, the charming courtyard, the quietness of the adobe rooms attest to a man who eschewed violence and worshipped wisdom until events forced him into

saving his country.
Just a few steps away is the pink Gothic style Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a cathedral whose roots date back to the 1600s. On the day I am there, a marriage is taking place and the sense of community as people arrive to attend the ceremony and townspeople and visitors just stopping by to look creates a sense of tradition and respect, make it apparent why so many Americans choose to live here.
Just kitty corned from the church, underneath the arched colonnade along Calle Hidalgo, take a stroll among the young girls and older women who sit in front of large baskets of blooms, shaping them into sweet smelling bouquets.
For shoppers, there are many stores, many of them selling upscale pottery, clothing and home furnishings, near the downtown plaza. But its worth walking the extra blocks to the Artes de Mexico on Calzado Aurora, a vast open air, multi level market place selling ceramics, iron works, local art, clothing, jewelry and home furnishings at a much better price.
And for those who want a sense of architecture, there is nothing better than wandering the narrow streets, gazing at wrought iron balconies with window boxes overflowing with blossoms and heavily carved wooden doors some of which date back to when the town was first founded almost five centuries ago.

The Charms of Old San Juan

The view of Old San Juan from the ramparts of San Cristobel Fort looking out over Calle de la Tanca which winds along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, past homes painted jelly beans colors of purple, green and pink, their soft colors worn by the passing years, is picture perfect even on this day where the sky is gray and the clouds intermittently release sheets of rain.

We have made our way here from our hotel, the luxurious San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, located in the hip and lively Condado section of the city where we ate at a wonderful Spanish restaurant called Miro after the famous painter. Our move back into history begins at the 27 acre fort, started in 1634 and finished in 1790 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site under the U.S. National Park Service. With its sheer 150 foot high walls, the fort is a massive stone structure designed to safeguard the island of Puerto Rico and the perfect place to begin my visit to Old San Juan, an enclave of colors, plazas, parks and streets lined with blue black bricks imported long ago from Spain.

Though I’m not much on military history and inwardly groaned when my friend Jody insisted that we stop here (I instead wanted to wander the winding streets of San Juan, admiring the Colonial style architecture which dates back, like the fort, to the 1600s, stopping in shops and trying the local delicacies), I am almost immediately enthralled by the fort’s interior. Its creamy yellow and ochre walled courtyard and arched colonnades lead to the rooms used by soldiers so long ago.

The narrow tunnels that crisscross the interior of the fort were once lit by torches before electricity was installed in 1901 have niches where soldiers could hide or pack with gun powder so that the tunnels could be exploded behind retreating guards. In the prison—a gloomy spur off the main tunnel, a ship’s captain whiled away his time spent here with hundreds of other captives, painted a picture of a sailing vessel. This, our guide tells us, is the largest fort built by the Spanish in the New World and where the first shots of the Spanish-American War.

Almost immediately upon leaving San Christobel, the sun begins to shine as we begin our walk to La Fonda El Jibarito, a local restaurant that specializes in the traditional foods of Puerto Rico. Unsure of what to order, I decide to try two dishes (hey, it’s vacation and you can eat whatever you want, right?), the mofongo con ajo mantequila (smashed plantains with garlic and butter and pastilles masa relleno con cerdo—similar to a tamale except that instead of the meat filled dough being wrapped in cornhusks, banana leaves are used.

Fortified, we are ready to begin exploring the stores, churches and historic buildings of Old San Juan.

Besides the balconies with their flower boxes spilling with blossoms and the wonderfully colored facades, the doors of Old San Juan are so wonderful that they have inspired artists to make small replicas for display. These are available, along with other wonderful island artifacts such as santos (representations of Catholic saints) and papier-mâché carnival masks from Ponce that are said to chase away evil spirits, at Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts at 204 Calle Fortaleza Street, which is on the ground floor of a 200 year old Colonial building.


After picking out my favorite door, we head to Casa Blanca, the White House and the oldest continuously occupied residence in the Western Hemisphere, built in 1521 and once occupied by Ponce de León’s descendants for more than 250 years. In an interesting aside, Ponce founded the first settlement here in 1508 before he wandered on looking for the Fountain of Youth.

The Spanish military took over Casa Blanca in 1779 and then the U.S. used it from 1898 to 1966. Now a National Historic Monument and home to a museum devoted to 16th, 17th and 18th century history, each room is decorated in a style associated with a period of the house's history.

The street scenes are part of what makes Old San Juan so intriguing. On one corner, cement chairs and tables painted with chessboard designs are anchored to the sidewalk for those who want to sit down and play. There are parks and plazas everywhere, each with its own distinct theme.

One favorite is Parque de las Palomas (Pigeon Park), located at the top of the city wall and overlooking both restored La Princesa Jail (now both a government office and an attractive art gallery) and views of the harbor, city and mountains. Another is the broad vast emerald expanse of land in front of El Moro, another stone fort overlooking the waters. Here, on Sunday afternoons, families take advantage of the coastal winds to keep colorful—and often homemade--kites afloat, filling the air with brightly pieces of paper.

We have time for one more stop-- at one of the many street stands selling paragua, shaved ice topped with a selection of flavors from mango to strawberry. It’s a refreshing way to end the day.


For more information:
La Fonda El Jibarito 280 Sol Street 787-725-8375
Miro Marisquería Catalana 76 Condado 787-723-9593
Old San Juan www.topuertorico.org
San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, call 800 464 5005